Gen Z sets the pace: between ultra fast Fashion and circular fashion, a conscious choice

For a long time, fashion moved at the frantic pace of fleeting trends, driven by an all-encompassing fast fashion industry. Today, the younger generation stands at a crossroads: on one side, the meteoric rise of ultra fast fashion platforms like Shein and Temu; on the other, a growing awareness in favor of more responsible consumption. Behind this contrast, one fact is clear: fashion is no longer just about instant gratification but also about commitment.

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The temptation of ultra fast fashion: a booming model

Shein, Temu, and similar platforms are redefining textile production at an astonishing speed. Thousands of new items every day, ultra-competitive prices, and striking accessibility through social media. This model particularly appeals to Gen Z, a hyper-connected generation seeking rapid renewal. In 2023, Shein already accounted for 18% of the U.S. fast fashion market, compared to just 3% in 2020 (Earnest Research).

While these figures reflect undeniable commercial success, they mask a concerning reality. The textile industry is responsible for 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions and consumes 93 billion cubic meters of water per year(Ellen MacArthur Foundation). Every mass-produced garment carries a significant environmental footprint. But in response to this reality, a more thoughtful, sustainable approach to fashion is gaining ground.

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‍The revival of circular fashion: a growing market

While some young people give in to ultra fast fashion, others are making a more engaged choice. Second-hand fashion, recycling, and repair are emerging as credible alternatives. The circular fashion market is experiencing exponential growth, reaching $96 billion in 2021 and projected to hit $350 billion by 2030 (ThredUp).

A shift driven by three key factors:

• An environmental impact reduction: Buying second-hand extends the lifespan of a garment and limits overproduction.
• A strong economic appeal: Purchasing a designer piece at a lower price, wearing it, and reselling it.
• A cultural trend: Circular fashion is fueled by social media, with the hashtag #ThriftFlip accumulating over 10 billion views on TikTok.

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Numbers that speak for themselves

Far from being marginal, this fashion revolution is becoming deeply ingrained in consumption habits. A McKinsey studyreveals that 73% of millennials are willing to pay more for a brand committed to sustainability. Among 16-24-year-olds, 40% already buy second-hand regularly (Fashion Network, 2022).

These trends outline a new reality in the market: consuming differently is no longer an exception but a dominant aspiration.

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When TikTok and Instagram become the new runways

The runways of major fashion houses no longer dictate style. Trends are now born on TikTok and Instagram, amplified by millions of young people who share their finds, outfits, and tips for consuming fashion differently.

On TikTok, the hashtag #ThriftFlip (which consists of transforming second-hand clothes) has surpassed 10 billion views. Young creators customize, cut, and reinvent clothes to make them unique. Where fast fashion mass-produces, they inject personality.

On Instagram, accounts dedicated to vintage fashion and slow fashion are booming. Bode, the New York-based brand that only creates garments from antique fabrics, is making waves at every Fashion Week. Their bet? Proving that exclusivity is not found in the new, but in a garment’s story. The result: an endless waitlist for each collection and enthusiasm extending far beyond fashion insiders.

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When brands adapt or disappear

Faced with this transformation, the industry has no choice but to evolve. Some historic brands are already embracing the circular movement:

• COS (H&M Group) has launched Resell, a resale platform for its past collections.
• Patagonia is strengthening its Worn Wear program, encouraging the repair and resale of clothing.
• Isabel Marant, Sandro, Balzac Paris, and many others are now integrating second-hand fashion into their business model through partners like Faume.

According to the Boston Consulting Group, 60% of second-hand shoppers intend to continue down this path. No longer an occasional alternative, responsible fashion is progressively becoming the norm.

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What are the key factors in purchasing decisions?

As younger generations reinvent their way of consuming fashion, what elements truly influence their purchasing decisions? A 2023 McKinsey study highlights three main factors:

• Style (78%) – Despite increased ecological awareness, aesthetics and originality remain determining factors. Fashion remains a means of personal expression.
• Price (72%) – Although sustainability is important, purchasing power remains a barrier. This explains the appeal of second-hand fashion, which allows access to quality at an affordable price.
• Environmental impact (54%) – More than one in two young consumers considers a garment’s environmental footprint before purchasing, a figure that continues to rise.

These trends indicate that for responsible fashion to truly take hold, it must be attractive, accessible, and aligned with consumer values.

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A new era for fashion

The duel between ultra fast fashion and circular fashion is far from over, but one thing is certain: Gen Z is setting the pace. On one side, overproduction and ephemerality; on the other, reuse and sustainability. This generation is no longer content to be passive consumers—they are reinventing fashion itself.

Brands that understand this shift won’t just survive—they will lead. Fashion is no longer just a matter of trends; it has become a statement of values.

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